I have sanded cabinets that were stained dark brown and varnished to prep them for painting. I planned to paint them white but would lile to give them a more interesting look by adding some antiquing with glaze or stain. Does anyone know how to do this? Or where I can find information on how to do this? Appreciate any ideas!
You can either purchase glaze or wipe on gel stain or make your own glaze in any color you like, but burnt umber or burnt sienna are most often used in faux antique finishes. I make my own glazes to control the transperancy, open working time and depth of color. I mix one part water, one part acyrlic or latex paint and one part Floetrol. Floetrol gives you more open time to work the glaze into where you want to antique by extending dry time. Obviously, the more Floetrol you add, the longer the open, working time before it dries.
You can get Floetrol in the paint aisle at the home improvement stores.
You can apply the glaze using several techniques depending on the results you desire. I usually prefer to use a small chip brush in recessed areas and then wipe over it with a soft, lint free cloth. I usually apply the glaze where I want to accent raised or recessed moldings. Sometimes I even apply it all over a piece to tone down a base color and then reapply in areas of architectural interest. I always seal my pieces with a non-yellowing polyurethane to protect the work and make it easier to clean.
You can find a lot of examples, photos, and detailed instructions on both the HGTV and DIY websites.
Fun project, Good luck.
Would it save me any money if had the house prepped for the contractor? Having cabinets, appliances, carpet, flooring removed or Am I better off letting contractor handle all the demo himself? (I have not received a contract from builder yet)
Depending on the contractor, it might be a good idea to get some stuff removed, and it could save money. I would wait until you have talked to the contractor. Who will be getting a dumpster? Do you need a permit? Be careful not to work too far ahead. Which project comes first? He might tell you to remove say the carpet or the cabinets, but I’d wait to have a game plan on what to do when. Good luck!
We just started remodeling our Bathroom with my husband.
And we are concerned about walls.
When we removed the original, old tile, behind it we found more cement and behind that, a wired mesh.
The upper section of walls do not have any kind of mesh, but simple a painted dry wall.
We are kind of concerned about this mesh. Should we replace it by dry wall? Or do something else?
Or how should we prepare those walls for laying tile? Does this wired mesh needed?
by the way. We are doing complete remodeling. We will change everything there.
What you have is a mud wall designed for tile, this is what we did in the old days. if it is not all broken up tile over it. If it is bad, pull off and get ready made concrete board screw it to the walls (after removing old) and tile away.
What’s avalable for wall covering, I don’t want to use wall paper or wood panel due to the humidity, & moisture. How about plastic panels or similar something that’s easy to install & clean. Any good suggestions out there??? No tile either
They make some really pretty Masonite panels that have good, durable finishes.
i want to replace my bathtube and one row of tiles around the tube, and the shower unit mixer needs to be replaced. what’s a rough estimate you can give me in chicago?
tube = tub
sorry
A conservative estimate would be around 3k (depending on the fixtures you want installed). You are going to need to hire a plumber to install your tub and mixer assembly and a tile person to do a quality job. The reason I say *conservative* is once you take out the old……you are able to see the problems beneath. Be prepared for pipe or water damage to your subfloor or walls. You should also really look at the style of fixtures and tile BEFORE you consult a contractor. That will help narrow down some costs now.
or do I need a seperate switch for each?
I tried and when one’s on the other is off… what am I doing wrong?
You can but you will probably be sorry you did.. It is handy to run the fan with the light off or you may just need the light without the fan. I put a switch on mine that has 5. 10, and 30 min. buttons or you can get the kind that you turn to put the fan on as long as you need. After a shower its good to let the fan run for 20 min or so to take the moisture out. and then you don’t have to go back to turn off the light and so on. You will have to split the feed line and have separate power sources so you can switch each separately. One switch & power source for the light and one of each for the fan. ( They both can be on the same circuit.) Good luck with your project.
A house we’re looking to buy has an unfinished master bath. All that is there is the framing, the insulation, and the plumbing to install a toilet and either a large shower or a small soaking tub. Ceiling, drywall, paint, mirrors, light fixtures, flooring, toilet, tub, fixtures, all are needed. Any ideas on cost would be appreciated. Thanks!
I just remodeled mine about two months ago. I have tub not a shower. I retiled the entire tub area with 6×6 tile as well as the back wall up to 3.5 feet. We ripped out the old sink and cabinet, the toilet and everything else. Left it barebones like yours.
This is what we installed and the cost.
Sink Base Cabinet 48" = $120
Sink = $160
Elongated pressure toilet = $200 (highly recommend, use little water but cleans out great)
Tile = $90
Water resistant Sheetrock = ~$40 (4 sheets 4×8)
Grout = $25
Waterproof flexbond thinset = $30 (1 – 2.5 gallon bucket)
Labor was free since I did all the work myself.
However, depending on where you live the cost to contract the job would be
Tile ~ $2 to $5 per square foot
Finishing = $500 ~ $2000 (install fixtures, drywall (Texture), paint)
You’re looking at about $800 on materials and supplies and anywhere from $1000 to $2500 for labor.
Total cost = $1500 to $3500
I’m remodeling my master bathroom and I’ve been flipping through pictures on Flickr. That way I get to look at people’s actual pictures, and I can save ones that I like or have elements I like.
We are completing a complete home renovation and I couldn’t have done it without the Kaboodle toolbar. It’s the greatest invention ever when it comes to collecting ideas all over the web. Much more organized than just using your favorites. It even recommends things from other people’s lists.
Remodeling the bathroom…
How can i drill a hole in ceramic tile…
What kind of drill would I use..or what kind of file would be best to make a hole in the tile to go around the shower faucet..
Thanks for your input…
The composition of ceramic tiles is as different as there are countries in the world. For this reason, there is no one single answer on how to drill a hole in ceramic tile. There is, however, one drill bit that indeed will go through each and every tile, but you may have great difficulty locating it.
Many ceramic tiles have a fairly soft inner core and a thin hard glaze on the outer surface that you look at. These are the very easy to drill through. The easiest tiles to drill into are very soft tiles that are often found in homes built in the southwestern part of the USA. Frequently these have no glaze or a very thin satin finish.
Tile hardness is a function of the type of clay and its silica content used to make the tile. The final hardness of the tile is also directly related to the amount of time the tile is in the firing kiln and the temperature inside the kiln. High temperature and long baking times can produce rock-hard tile.
Glass and porcelain tiles are very popular right now. These products are the hardest tiles to drill into. You can use a sharp carbide drill, but you need to oil or water the bit to keep it cool as it rotates on the tile. A diamond-encrusted bit will drill into porcelain or glass faster than carbide, but these bits are expensive.
If you are drilling into softer tile, a regular carbide bit works fine. Do not use a hammer drill as the rapid vibrations can crack the tile. The trick is to use a slow drilling speed and carefully grind through the surface of the thin glaze. Once the bit gets into the softer core, the drill will rapidly cut through the softer fired clay.
Do not apply too much pressure when you first drill as the drill and bit can slip away from the marked point and scratch the tile. The worst mistakes you can make are cracking or scratching a tile. If that happens, it will be a considerable amount of work to replace the damaged tile(s). Be careful and proceed slowly as you drill.
Would it save me any money if had the house prepped for the contractor? Having cabinets, appliances, carpet, flooring removed or Am I better off letting contractor handle all the demo himself? (I have not received a contract from builder yet)
all you can do is ask him it probably would save some money just be sure exactly what the want out the may wish to reuse certain things.